We have spent the last few days admiring the breathtaking beauty of Queen Charlotte Sound on the northern tip of the South Island. We arrived by ferry late on Sunday afternoon and quickly settled into the Top 10 Holiday Park. After supper, we walked around the lovely town of Picton. We awoke Monday to pouring rain. We were dry in our great new tent but a little bummed about the weather. We decide to forgo kayaking or hiking and decided to rent a wee car for the day. Most car rental agencies were closed but eventually we found a Toyota Vitz (a Yaris in Canada) to rent for $50. We spent the day driving around the twisty roads, visiting Havelock and Blenheim. Tuesday morning, we awoke to clear blue skies. That was great news as we had booked a water taxi ride with Cougar Line. At 8 am we boarded the small twin-hull boat and headed out into the Sound.
Picton Harbour on a perfectly calm morning
During the one hour ride to Motuara Island we saw a fur seal, a couple of Little Blue Penguins, and a flock of Fluttering Shearwaters. Motuara is located at the northern end the Queen Charlotte Sound and is the island on which Captain Cook first raised the Union Jack to claim the South Island for King George III.
The view from Motuara
Today it is a predator free bird sanctuary. Here and there along the path the conservation authority has placed nesting boxes for Little Blue Penguins. Lucky for us it is hatching time. Some boxes contained a parent incubating an egg, a parent and fledgling, or a couple of fledglings. They are very small (as their name suggests) and very cute but equally smelly…as diet of fish has its drawbacks.
After a couple of hours we boarded the boat and headed across Ships Cove (Captain Cook anchored here for more than 100 days during his voyages to New Zealand) to Resolution Bay. Here we disembarked and began a 10 km hike to Endeavour Inlet. We walked up and over the ridge and along the Sound. It was a beautiful walk in perfect weather. At 3:30 pm, we reboarded the boat and cruised back to Picton in overcast and windy skies.
View from the Queen Charlotte Track
Our lunchtime companion: a Weka
This morning, we hopped on our bikes and hit the road headed for Pelorus Bridge – 52 km away. We never made it. At the 25 km mark, after battling high winds and hills, we could see rain coming down the valley.
Rain coming down the Pelorus Sound
We pulled over and donned our raincoats. The wind increased and we decided to seek shelter in some bushes. It was a good plan. We remained hunkered down in the shrubbery for 90 minutes while the wind howled and the rain pelted down.
Our dry sanctuary
We got colder and colder and stiffer and stiffer. After we were sick of playing word games and shivering, we ran into the rain and put on our rain pants, our neoprene socks, and an extra layer and mounted our bikes. We made it to Havelock -10 km away. We were soaked but warm. We ate a delicious hot lunch at a small café and decided to call it a day.
Happy cyclists
We rented a cabin in Havelock just before another bout of torrential rain. We loaded the dryer with our gear and settled into the smallest cabin we’ve ever seen. As I wrap this up, the sun is shining and full rainbow is gracing the valley.
This trip sure has seen its share of ups and downs!
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